There wasn’t much wind overnight but there was an obvious sway from side to side in the gentle swell. When it is quiet any little thing that rolls to and fro is very annoying! Like the lipsalve in the cockpit that I identified sometime in the early hours. By daylight the wind had gone round to more easterly direction but only light. Today we were exploring the island(s). St Agnes is joined to Ghu by a narrow bar of sand which is awash at high tide, but only for a short time. So most of the time it’s just one island. We left our dinghy high up the beach as the tide will be in later. Along with lots of others! The Dubliners are still happily attached to their mooring buoy and we watched amused as they bought their dogs onshore by SUP. “Rosie” the jack Russell then ran off and was having a whale of a time and completely ignoring her owners. ( sound like someone I know…. ?!”) rucksacks on and boots , we set of up the winding concrete road, which are all just one vehicle width. This island has a very laid back feel, not as manicured and without the “wealth” that seems to exude from Tresco. Beautiful original stone cottages, some whitewashed, are dotted along the road. Everywhere agapanthus grows wild and the green and blue contrasts against the walls. We walked past the old white painted lighthouse ( now a private home) , trying to spot where my cousin stays nearby. Further on, The little village shop / post office was alive alive o, and the smell of freshly baking pasties wafted out. We made a plan to pop in on our way back! Turning off the main road, we took a track towards the coastguard cafe. It has a great view and was doing a roaring trade. We were tempted but there were no tables free so we persued the path down to the rocky coastline. Turning right we walked along a well trodden track which led to an open rock strewn area of moorland beautifully named, “Wingletang down” . The Rock formations are huge and spectacular. We sat and had our picnic looking out west, over the jagged rock strewn sea, with the tall lighthouse of Bishops rock in the distance. We found the Troytown stone maze which was apparently laid out by the bored son of the lighthouse keeper in 1729. Beyond this , to the west, the myriad of rocks was sadly the scene of many a wreck ☹️. We continued our walk through the campsite and past Troytown farm ( another wonderful name!) famous for their ice creams amongst other dairy produce. This brought us to St Agnes Church. Old Churches always tell such a story. This one appears to have been dedicated to the life boats which have served here and the crew that have served on them. The named Legge and Hicks come up everywhere and are true Scillonian families, many generations of which are buried here. One sad thing… I noticed amongst the centuries of posh gravestones, one Frederick Hicks who just had a small wooden cross and a little plate saying his name and birth: death dates. I wonder what did he do to deserve that? 🤔 We then walked by an amazing collection of nautical bric a Brac, with a great sign ( see pic) ! Eventually we came back up via the hall and tennis court, to the Lighthouse again. First lit in 1680, by coal braziers. We couldn’t resist a Troytown ice cream from the shop which was delicious. Crossing the bar we walked around the little island of Gugh , on the other side. Almost totally uninhabited, there are two Dutch looking buildings obviously being renovated. The other inhabitants are the very noisy gulls and seabirds that breed here. I love it when an island or area, really tells you, that YOU humans are the visitors…. don’t mess with us! This island is a breeding area for a lot of black backed gulls. Others as well, but predominantly black backs. They perch like sentries on duty on their rocks surveying their territory, and woe betide any nodogooder! Phenomenal parenting all around.. so wonderful to witness in the lichen covered white rocks, the peaty earth and the purple heather. Eventually we ended up at the Turks head for a beer and rested our feet. Such a memorable day, one we’ll not forget.
What I learned today…… there is a no rat policy on the island to protect the nesting birds, and there was obvious rat bait laid in special canisters on Gugh . Also phone numbers to call if you saw one!
Also there seems to a be problem putting photos on again …….☹️ Suex
Sue x
Angelique 